In this case it's film processed outside its normal environment causing good things to happen.
What an amazing little run of summer swell last week! Too many fun logging waves to count, bare arm paddling, salty smiles and sunburnt shoulders. I try to be all grown up and mature about going surfing but man i LOVE it!
Completely random song posting, havent heard it foryears, it just popped into my head in the line up the other day
Yet another SeaPea shot. It's been getting a lot of water time recently. It's amazing how much fun a little board can make a 2 foot windswell day. My shortboarding still lags behind my logging ability-wise but it's a blast all the same. It's definately going to be in the van for our annual trip to france in a few weeks
Another SEAPEA convert, they're addictive things to ride although I guess surfing itself is pretty addictive.
There's a massive wave in front of me, awesome in its beauty, terrifying in its power. It's been out there for miles, a pure visceral force of nature, driven by gravity. It fills my vision, my blood pounds in my ears as my breathing shallows. I should be scratching for safety but it's so perfect I'm caught, a rabbit in the headlights, mesmerised. I know what's coming yet am helpless before it, just a tiny speck in a raging sea, stomach in free fall as it feathers and breaks over me. Plunging me down, disorientating yet all encompassing, my heart straining so much it hurts. I'm fighting to breathe but there's no more air down here. Rag-dolling out of control at the mercy of a power bigger than me, bigger than any of us, there's no fight just acceptance.
I surface feeling more alive than before, searching the horizon, craving that feeling again. I know it's there.
What with all the SeaPea related excitement, i hadn't ridden a keel fish for ages until the other day. Pretty much on a whim i paddled my 5'8 mabile out on a tiny day, really way too small for anything but a log. It felt tiny and thin compared to a mini simmons despite being half a foot longer. I'd be lying if i said it was an epic session but there was a lot of satisfaction from generating speed and getting a couple of turns in on a tiny gutless wave. In summer everything is fun right?
I've been slowly getting more egg curious over the last few months. Inspired by Devon Howards instagram feed and a conversation i had with him a few years ago, back when Loose fit surfshop first opened. I've never owned a proper californian style egg and there's a hole in my quiver between 5'8 and 9'4 that some kind of midlength would happily fill. Part of the fun in ordering a board is agonising over the who's and the how's and the exactly whats. I think i've got my decision made but it's one thats likely to require some patience.