Nicely light leaked Diana film shot of my travelling quiver for our summer trip to france. Pretty much all conditions covered by these choices and they all got wet several times.
L-R 9'4 GS slimpig, 7'0 Greco surf performance soft top, 5'6 GS keel fish, 4th Gear flyer surf mat
I hadn't ridden the mat for a long time but I had so much fun in the high tide shore break on it, it ended up being one of the trip highlights. The soft top is fun too. It's really my daughters board but it surfs really well considering.
Part of the reason I've been time poor is because of this photo, or specifically the physical effort required to take it. First light breaking over Chamonix at the beginning of another big day of riding in the mountains climbing some of this years tour climbs. Sights like this made all the miles and hours of Devon hills worth it.
I haven't written many posts of late. Life seems so busy and sometimes its difficult to find the time to obsess over the minutae of surfing. I think too that the blogosphere isn't as vibrant as it once was. our ever shortening attention span is drawn more and more to the quick hit and immediacy of tweets and Instagram captions. I guess i'm as guilty as anyone of this - my Instagram gets updated more regularly than here if i'm honest. Still its nice to ramble a little when I get the chance.
Autumn is shaping up to be a classic this year with some solid fun size swell and plenty of offshores. The water is still warm and it's been a chance to rotate quite a few boards through the van from my quiver. My favorite board changes with every few days. Honorable mentions to the 9'4 Slimpig, 5'4 superchunk and my Howard special egg.
With the new parking arrangements at saunton, i've ended up surfing P-land a bunch over the summer. Its a maligned wave in many respects, oft overlooked unless the wind is wrong elsewhere. In truth it can be a lot of fun on a log or a fishy shortie, especially if you catch the right banks.